a large day

Years ago while taking a ferry to a small island off the coast of New Brunswick, Canada, a fellow passenger declared it was a “large day”. I have had many a large day on trips taken over the many years since hearing that description. 

Today is a large day. 

Beth declared today a Sabbath day for herself. I was good to have a Sabbath day myself. A day to stop and rest and rejoice in this place. It turns out our idea of Sabbath is not quite the same. While I’m good with stopping and relishing, I’m not so good with complete stopping. 

So I took off for a time to nearby Hvítarsíða waterfall. Just a 6 kilometer drive down the road, I was comfortable driving off by myself. I was rewarded with a waterfall sight the likes of which I’ve not seen before. 

Returning to the hotel, I drove just a short way further. I was rewarded with views of Mt. Strútur, Mt. Tunga and Eiríksjökull glacier. 


Now as the rain sets in for the duration of time in this place, I’ll continue my Sabbathing with a delicious cappuccino and bite of chocolate. 

Treated to an impromptu dance by hotel glee-filled personnel. 

And a rainbow!


It is restfilled. 

entry level luxury

For a couple of nights I’m staying in what is considered a luxury hotel. I used American Express points to “pay” for most of the cost. Nestled in the area of the Geitland Nature Reserve, far away from any town or hamlet, I’m settled into my privilege. 

The views are awesome. The dining room superior. The service above the norm. Even the bathroom has heated tile flooring. 

This morning when we noticed the absence of plush robes and a second chair for sitting, we realized we were in a Standard, not a Deluxe, room. We are entry level luxury. 


While we can be amused by that revelation, there is an uncomfortable level of truth. 

What level of luxury, or for that matter, what standard of living is sufficient?

Once again, I am mindful of my level of security and convenience, and my responsibility to share my good fortune with those without such good fortune. 

away has taken on new meaning

When I travel I often say “now this is really away”, because it is very much away, off the beaten track. This night finds me on a new level of away. 

Tucked up in the hills of middle Iceland, abutting a glacier, I am away. 

So how did I get here?  After my morning pastoral time, we took off to drive around the Vatnsnes Peninsula. One of the shorter distance around peninsula, it might have taken a couple of hours to circle around. But as usual it took us twice that. 

So many vistas to pull over to marvel at and to photograph. 

The M indicates a layby for pulling over on the narrow road so oncoming cars can pass. We took it to mean a photo pull off spot as well. 



This was a day to get out of the car and walk. A dirt path from the road led to a beautiful cove. 


Using found materials near the cove, I created an impermanent art installation. 


People flocked to view the piece. 

Continuing the drive we took a beautiful walk high above the coast. From this vantage point we had a good view of the 15 meter high haystack. 


Icelandic horses gathered at the end of the peninsula drive. 


Before we departed this area of Iceland we enjoyed a late lunch of nachos, a surprising find in Iceland, and actually pretty tasty. 


 Finally we were on our way to our next lodging destination. Along the way we found Iceland’s version of fall. 



Turning off the Ring Road we twisted and turned for 45 minutes until at last we arrived. Away indeed. 

A beautiful day from start to finish. 

stopping by a field 

To paraphrase Robert Frost, stopping by a field on a sun-filled morning…

Seated at a table overlooking a field colored by morning light of the season of fall, I ordered a second cappuccino. I’m in the mood to stop and gaze at my view. 


I’ve had extraordinary views this past week, mostly through the windshield as we traversed north Iceland and the Westfjords. 

This place, however, has pastoral written all over it. 

I find bustling around in my life serves me well. I suspect stopping occasionally to sit with the view both outside and inside myself is well worth the time. 

I have roads ahead this day, but for awhile I have stopped. 

now this is more like it

After a surprisingly good night’s rest, and waiting for 9am when the supermarket would open and a cappuccino could be had, we left Holmavik. It was decided that as long as we were in the Westfjords, we should take the road less traveled across the Westfjords, then down to the Ring Road. 

While it was wet and windy, the drive was gorgeous. Empty as well. We saw few cars, but hundreds of sheep. 



As we came to the last turn of our awesome road adventure, we were gifted with a rainbow. I don’t recall seeing the color purple in rainbows, but it is always evident here in Iceland. 


After checking into our full-house hotel, we left our laundry at the front desk and drove to a nearby town for dinner. I had the best cappuccino I’d had in days. 

We dined alongside the water at Sjavarborg restaurant, enjoying the views, the Fried Halibut and the Tiger Prawns. A taste bud treat!


Of course we had to share ice cream for desert. It was like no ice cream I’ve had before. Yum!

After dinner we drove past a do-it-yourself car wash. After a car wash incident on my 2016 trip to Iceland, I vowed to just drive a dirty car. But after getting the car so covered in sprayed dirt, with substantially reduced visibility, we had no choice but to wash. Two travelers from Maine assisted with the car cleansing. 

Once clean, we set out for a short end of day drive. 

Gathering to bed down for the night. 

As am I after this most excellent unplanned day of adventure. Looking back over the past 24 hours, I would not change a thing. It’s not often we can say that when we’ve faced unexpected and challenging changes to carefully made plans. I’m grateful I can do just that as my day comes to an end. 

The Lord Almighty grant us a peaceful night and a perfect end. 

the missed memo

Waking up in Holmavik in the Westfjords this morning, I realized the memo about visiting Holmavik in September had gone missing. 



The memo that announced the “closing” of the town on August 21. While I was viewing the eclipse at home, this town of 375 souls was preparing for the coming winter, when there will be just 4-5 hours of daylight. 

One of the two restaurants closed. The grocery store reduced its hours and no longer served breakfast in its cafe. The laundromat ceased operations. The hotel would issue an additional key to be used to open the hotel when returning to your room after looking for food and services. 

Surprisingly, we found a real bustle of activity at the church just down the road. As we walked around the church taking photos, cars swarmed into the parking area. It was time for choir practice! We were amazed at the number gathering in this town that otherwise had ceased opportunities to gather. 

Holmavikkirka was open for the business of singing. Indeed. 

Now I shall turn on the car music system, and sing my way south. 

Traveling mercies. 

from city to countryside

Today we traversed across north Iceland to the Westfjords, an all day drive as we poked along, stopping for photo ops and short walks. 

We left Akureyri in the rain. 


We were in and out of rain and sunshine. 

The photographs describe the drive far better than words. 









Now settled in Holmavik, we have decided this is too remote and empty a place to remain more than tonight. We just need to have greater community surrounding than we have found here. Besides, most businesses have closed and there is not a cappuccino to be had! We’ve arranged for lodging tomorrow night back in “civilization”.

For now we are bedded down in the Wesrfjords. 

Traveling mercies. 

abundance in water and steam

Today was waterfalls day. Up early, for us, we headed east across two peninsulas. Destination waterfalls.  

This was a beautiful day for a road trip.

Up first, Goðafoss. Flowing through a lava field,  the falls are an important part of Iceland’s history. At the National Assembly in the year 1000, the law speaker, Þorgeir, was forced to make a decision on Iceland’s religion. After 24 hours of meditation, he declared the country Christian. On his way home he passed the waterfall near his farm, and tossed in his pagan carvings of the Norse gods. Hence the name, Godafoss. 

On the 1000th year anniversary of Christianity in Iceland, þðrgeirskirkja (church) was erected nearby the falls


We discovered  blueberries were ripe for the picking alongside the path to the falls. 

On the drive to the next waterfall, we came across an area of thermal energy fields. The scene was “other-worldly”, and had a really strong smell of sulphur. 



About an hour’s drive on down Route 1, we arrived at Dettifoss. A 2.5 kilometer path led to the falls. 


This one of Iceland’s most impressive falls, with 400 cu meters of water thundering over the falls every second. 

Selfoss, located not far from Dettifoss, and along the same river was beautiful as well. 

Returning to Akureryi, we came upon Iceland’s version of fall. 



 Tomorrow we head to the Westfjords. Traveling mercies. 

Sabbath addendum

In an earlier blog, I spoke of having perks and privileges  in my life. I wondered what I might do with that privilege. 

Yesterday, while visiting the Lutheran church in village of Ólafsfjörður, and talking with Pastor Sigríður Munda Jönsdöttir, I learned about an outreach program they have with children in the community once a week. The children have recreation, snacks, and are taught about church in the manner we would consider Sunday School. 

Of particular interest to me was how the children of this outreach program, have an outreach of their own. They collect gently used toys, hand knit items, and candy to be sent to children in “white Russia”.  I understand this area to be Belarus. 

I made a donation to this effort. I’m intrigued to learn more about this when I return home.