air travel to Faroe Islands

I’m accustomed to a more organized and “privileged” manner of flying.

That all went out the window when flying to the Faroe Islands last night.

We traveled by taxi from the hotel to the Reykjavík domestic airport for the 15 minute ride. It’s possible to walk to the airport, but we chose not to roll bags for half an hour down streets and byways. Just saying…

Besides, we would have missed the history lesson our taxi driver gave us. All about who really discovered America, and how both the British and the US are credited with having built Reykjavík’s two airports. (I will say, the Americans did the better job.). And much more, but by then we had arrived.

Mobile checkin for our flight was available 20 minutes prior to departure. That’s novel. The airport is small with few services. It was pretty much unknown where to stand to line up for baggage, for security, and for boarding. That is, until an individual showed up and made an announcement for a given service. Then everyone gravitated that direction.

I’m generally used to having clearly identified lines for queuing, and often being close to the head of the queue. Here we just all engaged in a mass queue. Through this very civil and cordial process we all moved along slowly, kind of haphazardly, making some new friends along the way.

Eventually it was time to walk out on the tarmac to board.

Our plane was one of three operated by Atlantic Airways.

There’s the church in the center of Reykjavík.

It was a gorgeous evening to fly.

One hour later we were in the Faroe Islands.

We picked up our rental car and made many attempts to drive off. Equipped with a manual transmission and a manual in Faroese, I could not figure out how to get in reverse. Eventually other renters came along and showed the trick, pull UP and left. Now we’re talking! Off we drove to Tórshavn where we will spend the week, venturing out often.

It was a surprise to find it was so dark and the 30 minute drive was a challenge, mostly because of the numerous extraordinary waterfalls along the way that we could make enough just to regret not seeing. We will see them when we return to the airport next week.

All tucked in at Hotel Havgrim, we ended the day.

Awakening at 5am, here’s the view from the room.

This is going to be a fine day!

rest for the weary

In three days time I shifted time zones forward and backward. I gained an hour, then lost five hours, and today I’ll lose another hour. So I just went ahead and slept eleven hours last night. Who does that? Well, the weary do. Work, schedules, commitments and travel, bring on plenty of weariness for both of us. This trip is a time to find rest.

The hotel is designed for rest beyond beds. Throughout the hallways and floors are “rest stops”.

It feels like invitations to plop.

After plopping for a bit, we headed out for a noonday concert featuring Schola Cantorum. The location, Hallsgrimskirkja, offered prime plopping.

Having skipped morning Eucharist, this was a kind of exquisite worship.

Lunch followed, and then a walk around town. Today is a glorious day.

Now plopping once more this day, I’m reminded of a poem I received this morning in my inbox,,

From Irving Feldman’s poem How Wonderful!,

“…and you understand this, how wonderful! –that you’ve been led to be quietly yourself, like a root growing wise in darkness under the light litter, the falling words.”

Tonight we fly to Faroe Islands. Let the adventure continue!

gastronomic adventures in Reykjavík

Icelandair set down shortly before 5am. Two hours later, using public transportation, we arrived at Hilton Canopy Hotel.

Having loved our stay here last year, it was delightful to return.

Too early for a room to be made up, we headed out for Braud & Company, a local bakery,

and to Reykjavík Roasters.

We meandered down central city streets and into some local shops for a time, eventually making a stop for hot tea.

When we returned to the hotel we found our room was ready for occupancy. Not long after that, it was nap time!

A few hours later, having removed the jet lag, it was time for a late lunch.

Our personal flight attendant had recommended Messinn for local fish. Sautéed together, the fish, Icelandic potatoes, tomatoes and greens are brought in the skillet to the table.

I’m not the fish eater Beth is, so I opted for the salad served with garlic and Parmesan cheese toast. It was all amazing!

Now it was time to walk around the Reykjavík harbor area. The rain had ceased and occasionally the sun would make an appearance.

All that walking around under clearing skies, called for ice cream!

Returning to the hotel it was time for a long overdue total fresh-up of body and garb.

The Canopy offers late afternoon food and beverage tastings. Of course we were front and center for that event.

Icelandic beer was paired with a “devil” baked cheese of Camembert and Blue Cheese drizzled with local honey. A cappuccino added for my beverage, we were wowed.

Now filled up with sights and sustenance, we are in for the night.

During each opportunity to enjoy sustenance, I was keenly aware of the languages and dialects spoken within the distance of my hearing.

I’m reminded of lines from the poem Waiting in Line by Nick Penna.

“When you listen you reach

into dark corners and

pull out your wonders.

When you listen your

ideas come in and out

like they were waiting in line.”

It was a listening day start to finish.

next stop Reykjavík

At last! Taxiing to the runway for takeoff. I’ve been so ready for some time now. Flying time now estimated to be just over 7 hours. I like that more than I like 9 hours. Expected arrival is 4:57am. Oh my.

So, here’s an interesting development. We are the only passengers in Saga (First) Class.

We can move around as desired. Or not.

I’m so grateful for the freedom of flight, my love of far-off places, and the means to travel.

A before dinner treat.

Since it’s only the two of us, our flight attendant suggests we let her know about 25 minutes ahead of time for her to prepare our choices. Oh my!

We expect to see both sunset and sunrise. Sort of. This far north there is little full darkness this time of the year.

Sunset.

Night.

Dawn.

As we descend, breakfast!

faroe islands departure

While it’s true I departed home yesterday, I flew backwards in time and direction. This day I fly forward.

Reunion with my Texas family and Beth was filled with sweet hugs, joy & laughter, family tales, and a delicious meal prepared by those I love.

Both of my grandchildren are leaving home this week. Jack to college, and Georgia to her first post college apartment, close to her work. I remember when both of my sons left home. A time of new quiet and the reality of family size decreased by one-half.

And now my son’s children are leaving home.

We spent the night at a GRAND hotel located in the airport. So convenient! And I just have to mention the list of Must Haves that was on the night table. A quick call to the front desk and just minutes later I had slippers, a hair brush and a sewing kit! All complimentary and presented with a flourish and a smile.

Awakening this morning to overcast skies and a view looking at the roof of the airport, the images felt “Icelandic”.

I begin this new day as is my custom when traveling, a cappuccino and the NY Times, seated in the hotel’s Moka lounge.

As I prepare to travel , I’m reminded of lines from the poem Easter Exultet by James Broughton,

“Be prepared to bump into wonder.”

I’m not one to miss wonder, but I’m surely prepared and expectant to bump into wonder the next two weeks.

Traveling mercies.

hurling through the air

I have described flying as “sitting in a chair in the sky”, or “being inside a metal tube”.  Here’s another option: “hurling through the atmosphere in a giant metal can at 35,000 feet”.  In the article where I read this description, what followed was  “…is now one of the safest ways to travel”. Well, I guess so.

Today I hurtle toward Dallas, TX – Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport where the next time I take my seat in the chair in the sky, I will be on a non-stop flight to Reykjavik, Iceland. Traveling 3,737 airmiles for 9 hours, I’m likely to get a bit stir-crazy.  A bit likely to sleep some.  Very likely to be online.  Flying Icelandair brings with it free wi-fi from the moment you step onboard.  Whoo hoo!

IMG_5075

It IS true that flying to DFW in order to fly to Iceland is a bit backwards.  However, Icelandair’s non-stop option makes sense, and lets us avoid the slog through JFK. The bonus is that Beth (who flew to DFW yesterday to visit family) and I will have dinner with my Texas son and his family tonight. Later we will settle into the Grand Hyatt Hotel at DFW for the flight to Reykjavík on Monday.  I understand a walk out the door of the hotel leads right to the TSA security entrance for the terminal. That’s convenient.

At last the time has come to depart.

Traveling mercies.

planes, trains, automobiles, buses and ferries

I’m headed far, far away–

The Faroe Islands, situated where the Atlantic Ocean meets the North Sea, is an archipelago of 18 mountainous islands located halfway between Iceland and Scotland.  Just a bit of history to “set the scene”:  The islands were first settled in year 300 AD, although no one knows by whom. The first known settlers, according to stories passed down through generations, were Irish monks in the sixth century.

The name Faroe Islands first appeared as Faereyjar (in approximately 1225), which means “Sheep Islands”. This presumably led to the national symbol, which is a ram. This name was given by the Viking age settlers from Norway in the ninth century.

FIram

Since 1948, the Faroe Islands have been a self-governing nation under the external sovereignty of the Kingdom of Denmark. The islands’ population of nearly 50,000 (along with 70,000 sheep) is spread out across the 17 inhabited islands, the 18th island being  uninhabited. The islands are connected by road tunnels, ferries, causeways and bridges. One of the islands requires a helicopter ride for the journey.

FI_overviewmap

One flight a week from Reykjavik, Iceland to Vágar, Faroe Islands on Atlantic Airways brings visitors to the islands. And one flight a week returns visitors to Reykjavik.  An undersea tunnel connects Vágar Island with Streymore Island, where my destination, Tórshavn, is located. Tórshavn is the capital and largest city in the Faroe Islands with a population of 13,000. My lodging will be on Tórshavn, but I will venture out and about to some of the other islands.

I am soon to begin my journey to this far-away land. My departure is in 24 hours. Come along!

homeward bound

After having been home for a time, I’m now headed home.

I don’t really know how this family gathering could have been any better. Yes, you can go home again.

Awakening earlier than usual this morning, I wandered over to the ponds to await sunrise. The resident geese glided off to the far shore, creating streaks of white.

Walking across the grounds, listening to the geese muttering among themselves was so quieting for me. Generally when I awaken on a travel day I’m not stilled as I move toward the moment of take-off. This morning I was stilled within.

Today carried with it the sadness of this special family gathering coming to an end.

The pale pink of dawn reflected in the water helped cover the sad.

As I continued my walk, the day awakened. With it my gratitude for having my siblings to accompany me through 70+ decades of life.

Aspen trees are part of my pleasure in growing up in Colorado. I love their color, their sound as they “quake” in the wind. The bark of the aspen has a soft feel. Each time I walked between cabins I reached over to one aspen in particular and just stopped and rested in the moment of touch.

With the full light of day it was time to depart.

We three gathered for a sibling photo reflecting one so long ago.

Until we meet again.

Traveling mercies.

birthday day

While the impetus for this trip was to celebrate the 75th birthday of my sister and brother, my sister-in-law’s birthday is today.

Everyone greeted her this morning with song.

Then we went on a hike. About 6 miles from the cabins is the trailhead for The Colorado Trail. It was a perfect choice from the standpoint of elevation gain, hiking at an elevation of over 10,500′, and our oldering status. It’s an in and out trail, and we were on the trail around two hours. It was glorious!

The wind blowing through the trees made a kind of music.

Afternoon was time for relaxation, conversation, and reflection. About our lives decades ago. And now.

We were here long enough to have a favorite coffee house, City on the Hill Coffee and Espresso, and a favorite restaurant, Tennessee Pass Cafe.

After dinner we returned to the cabins for ice cream and gifts. The birthday celebrant declared it one of her best ever birthdays.

At the coffee house in town this morning, I spotted a young man in line whose shirt-back had a great message. I asked him if I could photograph his shirt and he was delighted to oblige.

I’m certain I was the reason for some smiles this day. I shall try to be a reason each day forward.

2 mile high

Leadville is proud of being two miles high in elevation, often comparing itself to the better known mile high city of Denver. Today we took a train ride on the restored Leadville Colorado and Southern Railroad. Climbing to 11,152′, the air was thin, the views magnificent, and the pleasure of our company a joyous time.

The ride was 2 1/2 hours, first pushed forward then pulled back by the engine. We chose an open car, riding along with “sunshine on our shoulders making us happy”.

Lyrics from the Weepies came to mind:

“All this beauty, you might have to close your eyes, and slowly open wide.”

And John Denver’s words:

“Colorado rocky mountain high
I’ve seen it raining fire in the sky
You can talk to God and listen to the casual reply
Rocky mountain high.”

This was a surprisingly entertaining adventure, helped enormously along by our legendary senses of humor.

After dinner….

driving the road home we were gifted with this sight,

The day drew to a close with lovely reflections both seen and spoken.

From W.S. Merwin’s poem Thanks

“Listen
with the night falling we are saying thank you
we are stopping on the bridges to bow from the railings
we are running out of the glass rooms
with our mouths full of food to look at the sky
and say thank you
we are standing by the water thanking it
standing by the windows looking out
in our directions…”