Author: cometsgirl

Today was a day filled with intention.

Intention to keep sabbath – through community worship, slowing down, walking when possible, lessening the need for haste.

A gentle awakening under an overcast sky, to begin this new day. No need existed to be anywhere until 11am for church.

We chose to walk to church, mapping the walk through narrow streets, up and down stairs, alongside fences, with twists and turns through neighborhoods.

Our destination, Hangar Kirkja.

Arriving in time to be welcomed, to learn a bit about where to sit and how to follow the service which would be in Faroese, we were surprised to be ignored, avoided even. No eye contact, no conversation. It felt unseen.

The space was beautiful, the chick priest had a lovely presence, at least one of the hymns was familiar, and there were three christenings.

Note the wooden boat hanging from the ceiling. This is a tradition in churches in the Faroes.

Ann, our priest, led worship with her back to us during much of the service. This style of worship is how the Episcopal church did it up until the 1970’s, when the altar was pulled out from the wall and clergy began to face the congregation. Her sermon may have been inspiring. She had a brilliant smile, and a softness about her as she christened the three babies.

Although the table appeared to be set for communion, there was none. There was nary a cross in sight.

Ann and Beth had a greeting of recognition of shared ministry as they shook hands after the service ended.

We then walked to Brell Cafe for coffee and sandwiches. The cappuccinos and lattes are always works of art.

Continuing the walk home, we had quite an interesting conversation along the way. A dropped glove brought Henri into our life for fifteen minutes of delightful chatting.

Late afternoon we chose to drive to the harbor to do some laundry. This activity necessitated “sitting around” waiting for clothes to get clean and dry. Delicious bowls of curry soup for supper as we waited.

This business of doing laundry deserves reward.

This day ended as gently as it began.

This day was to have had a prearranged meeting, but when the reality of needing to arrange all the possibilities of places we could go and the things we could see around this appointment, we choose to abandon any timetable.

It turned into a fluid day with choices made as we moved through the day and along the roads ahead.

There was heavy rain the night before, gifting us with waterfalls too numerous to count or capture. All showcased by the sunny day.

A bridge took us from Streymoy Island to Eysturoy Island, where we stopped in the town of Toftir at Navia Yarns, a mecca for Faroese wool.

Not being a knitter, nor drawn to yarn this day, I came upon a bowl of buttons. I saw the possibility of creating flowers. I ended up having a delightful time choosing buttons that will later become flowers.

Oh, and I found a lovely wool throw to purchase!

Moving on through town,

we stopped at the old

and the new.

Several people had suggested we attend the Fisherman’s Festival held each year in Klaksvík, on the island of Borðy. That became our next destination. A five-mile long tunnel under the sea took us to Borðy. It’s easy to lose visual acuity and spacial clarity when in a tunnel that long.

I guess we shouldn’t have been surprised by the crowds and the traffic, but we were. Directed through town (it was now a rainy day) by volunteers, we passed by much of the festival’s goings on. All the way past and on up above the town to find parking. What we found instead was a vista point from which we enjoyed the entire array of events.

That was quite sufficient for us.

About to leave town, we read this in our guidebook: “The extravagant interior of Christianskirkjan holds a whopping altar fresco of The Parable of the Last Banquet from St Luke’s Gospel.”

We quickly entered and exited several round-abouts to make our way to the church. It did not disappoint!

We sat in this space doing prayers from Daily Prayer for all Seasons.

Excerpt:

Scripture reading: I give you a new commandment, that you love one another. Just as I have loved you, you also should love one another. By this everyone will know that you are my disciples, if you have love for one another. John 13: 34-35

Meditation; Isn’t that what friendship is all about: giving to each other the gift of our belovedness? Henri Nouwen

Prayers; As the day lengthens, O Christ, Teach us to walk in your love. While we strive to be faithful in word and deed, Teach us to love one another. While we live as part of your creation, Teach us to love this good earth. Amen.

Our next choice was to go up up and away.

We drove across the midsection of Borðy via another, shorter tunnel, then roads up the eastern coast.

A pretty church perched on the edge of the coast.

Another tunnel under the sea crossing took us to the island of Vidoy. One more tunnel through the mountain and we were on the eastern coast near the top of Vidoy Island.

It was unbelievably windy with off and on rain. Then the rain ceased and the wind blew the clouds away,

allowing the sighting of distant islands.

Then, of course, was the return drive home. Back down the coast, through tunnels, and across bridges. To the sunset outside the hotel window.

The previous blog ended at the end of the road at Skarvanes. The return drive from Skarvanes was filled with the sights not seen while driving down the road. Well, of course.

A brief stop on the way to catch the return ferry, to visit a local church (note turf roof).

We calculated how much time we had left before we needed to be getting in the ferry queue, and determined we could make the drive to Søltuvík and back in time for the ferry. The description of what we were to experience made it worth the effort. “In the remote and wild bay of Søltuvík is one of the most beautiful spots in the whole of the Faroes.”

It was SO worth the effort!

A quick return drive to board the ferry, and we were on our way back to Tórshavn.

The rains hit, making for a stormy thirty-minute ferry ride.

It was perfect weather after a perfectly beautiful day, to enjoy bowls of asparagus soup. Hmmm, good.

The final activity of the day was to summit the “highpoint” of Tórshavn.

While we did have to adhere to a scheduled coffee date this morning, the remaining day was more maybe.

Maybe we should wander around the marina.

Or wander over to an arts section of town.

Or…. what about catching a ferry to Sandoy Island. Not having a reservation, or even knowing when the next ferry was scheduled to depart, we took off for the ferry departure location south of Tórshavn. A good number of cars and trucks were already in the quay. Nonetheless, we were able to get on the ferry – just barely. We were next to last to load. Amazing! And so off we sailed.

Upon arrival on Sandoy, we headed to the very south end of the island. Our guide book described some not-to-be missed coastal drives. One we especially wanted to do, but it’s description ” it’s a hair-raising 5km journey around the towering headland, on a single-track lane with blind corners that hugs the side of the mountain high above sheer cliffs before finally dropping down into Dalur, one of the most picturesque places in the southern islands,” gave us pause. After reading these words and carefully considering our ability to do this drive, we opted to drive to Skarvanes instead. It did not disappoint.

Sheep are a real issue for drivers anywhere on the islands. One defers to sheep on the roads. They are everywhere, primarily eating or seeking more to eat as they wander down the roads.

The color of their fur is kind of a mix-and-match blend in shades of brown, black, and ivory.

There is much more to tell about this adventure, but we must be off to today’s opposite direction adventure.

Stay tuned.

Today began with early morning light serving as an alarm clock. That’s our room on the top floor left.

Breakfast was abundance while overlooking the fields and the sea.

Coffee at Brell Roastery followed. It was here that we decided to have a “maybe” day. We would just see where our day took us. Maybe we’d turn here, maybe we’d walk there, maybe we’d just see how the day unfolded.

It took us to the island of Streymoy where we saw waterfalls too numerous and vast to count;

to roads too stupendous to drive without gazing off;

to vistas too magnificent to photograph well,

We shared the day with some of God’s precious.creatures.

Walking through high grass, I saw that God had sown a fine field of colors.

The choice to have a maybe day fit well on the Faroe Islands.

I’m accustomed to a more organized and “privileged” manner of flying.

That all went out the window when flying to the Faroe Islands last night.

We traveled by taxi from the hotel to the Reykjavík domestic airport for the 15 minute ride. It’s possible to walk to the airport, but we chose not to roll bags for half an hour down streets and byways. Just saying…

Besides, we would have missed the history lesson our taxi driver gave us. All about who really discovered America, and how both the British and the US are credited with having built Reykjavík’s two airports. (I will say, the Americans did the better job.). And much more, but by then we had arrived.

Mobile checkin for our flight was available 20 minutes prior to departure. That’s novel. The airport is small with few services. It was pretty much unknown where to stand to line up for baggage, for security, and for boarding. That is, until an individual showed up and made an announcement for a given service. Then everyone gravitated that direction.

I’m generally used to having clearly identified lines for queuing, and often being close to the head of the queue. Here we just all engaged in a mass queue. Through this very civil and cordial process we all moved along slowly, kind of haphazardly, making some new friends along the way.

Eventually it was time to walk out on the tarmac to board.

Our plane was one of three operated by Atlantic Airways.

There’s the church in the center of Reykjavík.

It was a gorgeous evening to fly.

One hour later we were in the Faroe Islands.

We picked up our rental car and made many attempts to drive off. Equipped with a manual transmission and a manual in Faroese, I could not figure out how to get in reverse. Eventually other renters came along and showed the trick, pull UP and left. Now we’re talking! Off we drove to Tórshavn where we will spend the week, venturing out often.

It was a surprise to find it was so dark and the 30 minute drive was a challenge, mostly because of the numerous extraordinary waterfalls along the way that we could make enough just to regret not seeing. We will see them when we return to the airport next week.

All tucked in at Hotel Havgrim, we ended the day.

Awakening at 5am, here’s the view from the room.

This is going to be a fine day!

In three days time I shifted time zones forward and backward. I gained an hour, then lost five hours, and today I’ll lose another hour. So I just went ahead and slept eleven hours last night. Who does that? Well, the weary do. Work, schedules, commitments and travel, bring on plenty of weariness for both of us. This trip is a time to find rest.

The hotel is designed for rest beyond beds. Throughout the hallways and floors are “rest stops”.

It feels like invitations to plop.

After plopping for a bit, we headed out for a noonday concert featuring Schola Cantorum. The location, Hallsgrimskirkja, offered prime plopping.

Having skipped morning Eucharist, this was a kind of exquisite worship.

Lunch followed, and then a walk around town. Today is a glorious day.

Now plopping once more this day, I’m reminded of a poem I received this morning in my inbox,,

From Irving Feldman’s poem How Wonderful!,

“…and you understand this, how wonderful! –that you’ve been led to be quietly yourself, like a root growing wise in darkness under the light litter, the falling words.”

Tonight we fly to Faroe Islands. Let the adventure continue!

Icelandair set down shortly before 5am. Two hours later, using public transportation, we arrived at Hilton Canopy Hotel.

Having loved our stay here last year, it was delightful to return.

Too early for a room to be made up, we headed out for Braud & Company, a local bakery,

and to Reykjavík Roasters.

We meandered down central city streets and into some local shops for a time, eventually making a stop for hot tea.

When we returned to the hotel we found our room was ready for occupancy. Not long after that, it was nap time!

A few hours later, having removed the jet lag, it was time for a late lunch.

Our personal flight attendant had recommended Messinn for local fish. Sautéed together, the fish, Icelandic potatoes, tomatoes and greens are brought in the skillet to the table.

I’m not the fish eater Beth is, so I opted for the salad served with garlic and Parmesan cheese toast. It was all amazing!

Now it was time to walk around the Reykjavík harbor area. The rain had ceased and occasionally the sun would make an appearance.

All that walking around under clearing skies, called for ice cream!

Returning to the hotel it was time for a long overdue total fresh-up of body and garb.

The Canopy offers late afternoon food and beverage tastings. Of course we were front and center for that event.

Icelandic beer was paired with a “devil” baked cheese of Camembert and Blue Cheese drizzled with local honey. A cappuccino added for my beverage, we were wowed.

Now filled up with sights and sustenance, we are in for the night.

During each opportunity to enjoy sustenance, I was keenly aware of the languages and dialects spoken within the distance of my hearing.

I’m reminded of lines from the poem Waiting in Line by Nick Penna.

“When you listen you reach

into dark corners and

pull out your wonders.

When you listen your

ideas come in and out

like they were waiting in line.”

It was a listening day start to finish.

At last! Taxiing to the runway for takeoff. I’ve been so ready for some time now. Flying time now estimated to be just over 7 hours. I like that more than I like 9 hours. Expected arrival is 4:57am. Oh my.

So, here’s an interesting development. We are the only passengers in Saga (First) Class.

We can move around as desired. Or not.

I’m so grateful for the freedom of flight, my love of far-off places, and the means to travel.

A before dinner treat.

Since it’s only the two of us, our flight attendant suggests we let her know about 25 minutes ahead of time for her to prepare our choices. Oh my!

We expect to see both sunset and sunrise. Sort of. This far north there is little full darkness this time of the year.

Sunset.

Night.

Dawn.

As we descend, breakfast!

While it’s true I departed home yesterday, I flew backwards in time and direction. This day I fly forward.

Reunion with my Texas family and Beth was filled with sweet hugs, joy & laughter, family tales, and a delicious meal prepared by those I love.

Both of my grandchildren are leaving home this week. Jack to college, and Georgia to her first post college apartment, close to her work. I remember when both of my sons left home. A time of new quiet and the reality of family size decreased by one-half.

And now my son’s children are leaving home.

We spent the night at a GRAND hotel located in the airport. So convenient! And I just have to mention the list of Must Haves that was on the night table. A quick call to the front desk and just minutes later I had slippers, a hair brush and a sewing kit! All complimentary and presented with a flourish and a smile.

Awakening this morning to overcast skies and a view looking at the roof of the airport, the images felt “Icelandic”.

I begin this new day as is my custom when traveling, a cappuccino and the NY Times, seated in the hotel’s Moka lounge.

As I prepare to travel , I’m reminded of lines from the poem Easter Exultet by James Broughton,

“Be prepared to bump into wonder.”

I’m not one to miss wonder, but I’m surely prepared and expectant to bump into wonder the next two weeks.

Traveling mercies.